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Visiting the ruins of Anuradhapura by bicycle. This is how it works


Massive temples and weathered ruins are scattered throughout the landscape of the ancient city of Anuradhapura Sri Lanka. We keep up our speed while cycling through the scorching heat of the Sri Lankan summer sun. My rusty bike squeaks and creaks under my hips. The 40 square kilometre area has dozens of stupas, temples and Buddhas and is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Every ancient structure we come across seems bigger and older than the one before. The best way to visit this special place is – like a real Dutch person likes to do – by bicycle. Read everything you need to know about visiting the ruins of Anuradhapura in this article.

Capital of Sri Lanka

Already in the 4th century, BC Anuradhapura became the capital of Sri Lanka and the centre of the early Buddhism. It was a lively city and the country was ruled from here for more than a thousand years. The South Indians repeatedly tried to take over the capital. But even after several successful attempts, the Sinhalese managed to conquer their city over and over again. In the centuries that followed, the rulers of Anuradhapura had the largest and most beautiful temples and palaces built. What remains today are ruins and refurbished buildings from times long gone.

Visiting the ruins of Anuradhapura Sri Lanka

A visit to the ruins of Anuradhapura can be an intimidating undertaking. There’s a lot to see, the distances are long and the internet is full of contradictory advice. We did not let ourselves be fooled and chose our own way. If you really want to immerse yourself in the history and culture of the old city, you need at least three days. We have one full day. That means we have to make choices and we need to keep ongoing. Even though it’s very hot. Here we go.
 
Anuradhapura Sri Lanka

Keep paying attention

It’s a 10-minute bike ride from our hostel to the first historical area. Anuradhapura is flat and the roads are pretty good. There are no cycle paths, so we have to be careful in the busy city centre. Scooters and tuk-tuk’s pass us at high speed. We are overtaken by honking buses. I keep my hand in front of my mouth, so I don’t breathe in the black smoke. At the Jethawanaramaya Museum, we park our bicycles and buy a ticket for the most important sights.

Mirisavatiya Dagoba

The first stop is Jethawanaramaya Dagoba. Once the dagoba was 120 meters high. Except for the Egyptian Pyramids, it was the highest construction in the world. Today the Jethawanaramaya Dagoba is only 70 meters high. The sacred structure is extra special because it has not been plastered, as is customary. Here you can see all 7 million bricks just sitting. Because of the colour of the bricks, the building seems to become one with nature.
 
Anuradhapura Sri Lanka

Ruwanwelisaya Stupa

The Ruwanwelisaya Stupa was built 140 years before Christ. At the beginning of the last century, there was not much more left than a dilapidated mountain of stones. In 1940 the stupa was restored. Now there is a radiant white building, surrounded by a wall of stone elephants that protect the stupa shoulder to shoulder. It’s busy at the Ruwanwelisaya Stupa. Most visitors are locals. It’s the weekend and families spend their days in the park around the sacred site.
 
Anuradhapura Sri Lanka

Anuradhapura Sri Lanka

Abhayagiri Dagoba

The Abhayagiri Dagoba is the most northerly when cycling in the area, visiting the ruins of Anuradhapura. It’s a 20 minutes bike ride from our starting point. The dagoba is over 2 centuries old and 100 meters high. Also this dagoba is not plastered. Maybe it’s because of the location, but we are surprised about the peace. Except for a few monkeys we are the only one on the whole terrain.
 
Anuradhapura Sri Lanka



The holy fig tree

The Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi is a 2000-year-old fig tree protected by a high wall with a golden fence. You have to take off your shoes before you enter the complex. The sand is very hot because of the bright sun. We jump from one shadow to another with a quick pass. Unlike the older ladies, who slowly wander around the tree. Their feet must be made of leather.

The fig tree isn’t very big and doesn’t look old either. It’s special because it originated from a cutting of the tree under which Buddha found enlightenment. The original tree stood in India and was destroyed shortly after the enlightenment of Buddha. The tree has been protected from enemies and well cared for in the last 2000 years. Very special!
 
Anuradhapura Sri Lanka

Isurumuniya cave temple

Our last stop is the Isurumuniya Temple. The temple is built in a cave. Next to the temple we see a large crevice in the rock full of squealing bats. In the rock wall next to the lotus pond we see hundreds of coins, which visitors throw in the hole for luck.
 
Anuradhapura Sri Lanka

Visiting the ruins of Anuradhapura by bicycle

Although the ruins of Anuradhapura are a popular sight in Sri Lanka, it strikes me that there is little information available. For example, we are unable to find a good map of the area. Let alone a bicycle route. To save time on your research I’ve listed some useful tips for you.
 
Anuradhapura Sri Lanka
 

This is how it works at Anuradhapura Sri Lanka

  • The best way to discover the ruins of Anuradhapura is by bike. You will be free to go wherever you want.
  • Most accommodations in Anuradhapura rent bikes for approximately € 1.50 per day.
  • It can get very hot in this area. So bring enough water.
  • Do you prefer not to cycle? A tuk-tuk tour costs about € 3,- for a half day tour. This does not include the entrance tickets.
  • Beware that you do not accidentally cooperate in scams. There are tuk-tuk drivers who offer a kind of total package. You pay about € 30,- for the tour and all entrance tickets. The drivers have made deals with the guards of the temples. The guards receive a few rupees and then let you in for ‘free’. This way the driver keeps extra money for himself and the guards earn an illegal penny. The only problem is that your money doesn’t go to the organisation, which uses it for maintenance and restoration, but to a group of corrupt guys working at the ruins of Anuradhapura.
  • You can visit most of the ruins for free. Some locations cost € 1,50. For the main attractions, such as Abhayagiri and Mirisavatiya, you need a separate entrance ticket. This costs € 23,- per person.
  • You can buy your ticket at the Archaeological Museum or at the Jethawanaramaya Museum.
  • The ticket is only valid for 1 day. To avoid having to buy another ticket the next day, it is wise to visit the temples that are on your ticket first. The temples with their own entrance fee, you can do the next day.
  • As far as we could see, there are no handy maps of the terrain available. We used the MAPS.ME app. You can download the map of Sri Lanka in advance. The map shows all the places of interest marked.
  • Please make sure your legs and shoulders are covered, otherwise, you won’t even enter the terrain in many places.
  • The Buddhists visiting Anuradhapura wear white clothes. If possible, it is nice to do so as well.
  • Wear shoes that are easy to put on and take off, as most places require you to take off your shoes.
  • The tile floor and the sand are hot in the bright sun. It’s smart to bring a pair of socks to put on when the ground really gets too hot for your feet.
  • The city of Anuradhapura itself is not that special. There are dozens of hotels and homestays and a limited number of restaurants.
  • We stayed at Charm Inn Tourist Rest. Great accommodation for a low price. We paid € 20,- per night for a simple double room with private bathroom. The hygiene in the room was doubtful and the common room a bit messy. But the charming owner made up for the flaws. We played some great games with him!

Extra tip!

When you have time I recommend you to take a tuk-tuk to the temple complex of Mihintale around half past four in the evening. From Anuradhapura to Mihintale is a 45-minute drive. The temple complex is a place of pilgrimage and is visited every day by hundreds of Buddhists. To get to the temple complex you have to climb a lot of stairs, but once upstairs it’s more than worth the effort. On top of the mountain, you climb the Aradhana Gala Rock, a rock that peaks above the landscape. There you have a beautiful view of the landscape. Then you just have to pray for an amazing sunset.

The entrance to the temple complex is € 3, – per person. For the tuk-tuk from Anuradhapura to Mihintale we paid € 15, -. The driver waited for more than 1.5 hours.

 
Anuradhapura Sri Lanka

Mihintale Sri Lanka

Filter tap water anywhere in the world!

Did you know you don’t have to buy single-use plastic bottles while travelling as a vegan in Bali? We haven’t used any single-use plastic bottles and have been on the road for years. How? By filtering tap water and water from natural sources with our own water filters. One of our favourite bottles is the Water-to-Go filter bottle. This great and handy filter friend can be yours soon and if you order it and use our discount code, you will get 15% off your order. So go and visit their website and enter ADED15 at checkout!
 

Water-to-Go

 
Read all about our experiences with several different bottles and systems in this blog.

Did you enjoy reading about Anuradhapura Sri Lanka? Read these:

1. Searching for elephants in an ecolodge in the wilderness of Sri Lanka
2. How To Get To Chi Phat: The Special Ecovillage in Cambodia
3. This is how we travel the world without buying plastic bottles of water
4. A step by step guide to visit the Taj Mahal without other tourists
5. These are the best vegetarian restaurants in Iran

Daisy
About me

Meet Daisy, freelance travel journalist, filmmaker and cookbook author. Some people know her as a leftover queen, others as a travel addict or a world improver. She can't be described with just one word. She travelled for a year as a travel reporter for Expedia in the Netherlands, held a TED talk about food waste, wrote two cookbooks about cutting down on waste and won the only professional prize for travel journalism with an article about her stay with the nomads in Iran. With this website, Daisy wants to show that sustainable living, travelling and eating consciously is not only simple but very valuable and enriching.

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